Confessions of a Fabricaholic

Wallet Tutorial

See also the instructions I uploaded to BurdaStyle (they are the same, just in a different format).

Features:

• snap tab closure
• 6 credit card slots
• zippered pocket
• 2 full width inner slip pockets
• optional: outer zipper pocket

You will need:

• 2-3 fabric colors, about 1/2 yard total
• interfacing, 1/4 yard
• heavy duty snap, tools, and instructions
• zipper (I used 7″, but you can always cut it shorter)
• 2nd zipper if you want an outer zipper pocket
• zipper foot
• size 16 needle
• a cutting mat and ruler make this much easier

Cut your fabric:

Sorry, this picture is not completely accurate

• 2 - 8.5″ x 9″
• 6 - 8.5″ x 4.5″
• 1 – 8.5″ x 4″
• 1 – 8.5″ x 3.5″ (not pictured)
• 1 – 8.5″ x 3″
• 2 - 2.5″ x 5″ for snap tab (not pictured)
• 1-  8.5″ x 8″ if you would like an outer zippered pocket

The exact amounts of each fabric I used are as follows:

vinyl:
1 pc, 8.5 x 9
1 pc, 2.5 x 5

cotton #1 (green):
1 pc, 8.5 x 9
1 pc, 8.5 x 4.5
1 pc, 8.5 x 3
1 pc, 2.5 x 5

cotton #2 (yellow):
5 pcs, 8.5″ x 4.5″
1 pc, 8.5″ x 4″
1 pc, 8.5″ x 3.5″

heavy interfacing:
1 pc, 8.5 x 9 (if you do not use vinyl for the outside, cut a 2nd piece the same size)
I also recommend interfacing the largest credit card pocket, and the inside of the zip pocket for extra stability.

Insert zipper:

Note: For this portion, I worked off of the tutorial provided by j.caroline for her hobo bag.  If you would like more detail, feel free to visit her site.

This is the hardest part, so I like to get it out of the way!

Step 1. Take 1 of your 8.5″ x 4.5″ pieces (this one will end up on the inside of the zippered pocket).

On the wrong side, draw a line in pencil 1″ from the top.  It should end 1″ from each edge.  Draw an identical line 1/2″ below the first one, and connect them at the ends.  This will be the square into which your zipper will be inserted.

Step 2. Place another 8.5″ x 4.5″ piece (the outside of your zippered pocket) underneath the piece you just drew on, right sides facing.  Pin.

Carefully sew around the box you drew using a small stitch length (I used 1.8).  Make sure your corners are neat.  Tie the ends off to ensure the thread will not come loose.

Step 3. Cut down the middle of your rectangle to about 1/2 ” from each end.  Then cut to each corner (as close as possible) creating a triangle at the end.  Make sure this is neat.

Step 4. Flip one side right side out through the hole you just created, and press carefully around the rectangles edges.  This can be a bit fiddly, just go slow and pin it if you need to.

Step 5. Pull each end back and you will see the triangle you cut before.  Tack these down to the inside piece (marked with red).  This helps make the small ends of your rectangle neater.

Step 6. I like to sew across the open end of the zipper to make it easier to handle when inserting.

Now, measure your zipper against the opening in your fabric.  It should be just a bit long.  This is good.  I hate the metal end- if your needle ever gets stuck in there, it’s very very hard to get out- I know from experience!

Sew across the teeth of your zipper (several times) just past where it will be hidden from sight.  Cut off that darn metal piece.  You probably want the zipper to have about an extra 1/2″ or so on the end for inserting.

Step 7. Pin and sew the zipper in place (using a zipper foot).  Sew close to the edge of the fabric (less than 1/8″).  Notice the stitches from the previous step are hidden past the edge of the fabric.

*If you would like an outer zipper pocket, I recommend doing it at this point so that the first zipper is still fresh in your mind.  It can, however,  be done at any point before step #23.  See the instructions at the end of the tutorial (sorry for the lack of pictures).

Finish Zipper Pocket:

Step 8. Take 2 more 8.5″ x 4.5″ pieces and place them wrong sides together.  These will be the inside of your zipper pocket, and the inside of the slip pocket.

Pin these pieces (wrong sides together) onto the outside of the zipper pocket (so the zipper is facing these new pieces).

Step 9. Stitch only the top edge together using a 3/8″ seam allowance.

Step 10. Flip so the seam is hidden (the new pieces are behind the zipper piece).  Press the seam well.

Pin all edges of the pocket.  Topstitch the top edge that you just sewed together (marked with red).  Baste together the other sides using about a 1/4″ seam allowance (marked with blue).

Your zippered pocket is now complete!

Note: my actual stitches are much neater than my drawing skills might suggest

Credit Card Pouches:

Step 11: Take 2 more 8.5″ x 4.5″ pieces.  Place them right sides together and pin.  Sew the top edge only using a 3/8″ seam allowance.

Flip so the seam is hidden, press the seam. Topstitch  about 1/8″ from the folded edge.  This will be your bottom pocket.

Step 12. Take your 8.5″ x 4″ piece.  Fold the top edge over 1/2″ and press.  Topstitch about 1/8″ from the folded edge.

Repeat for both other pieces- 8.5 x 3.5 and 8.5 x 3.

Step 13. Line the largest 2 pockets up & pin.  Make sure the top edges are parallel- this is more important than the bottom edges being exact.

Draw a line in pencil 2.5″ from the top edge.  Stitch over your line (this will be hidden from sight).

Step 14. Do the same with the next piece, only draw your line 3″ from the top edge.

Step 15. Place the smallest piece on top.  Pin all together, and baste the 3 unfinished edges using 1/4″ seam allowance.

Find the middle of your pockets (width-wise) and lightly mark points in pencil along that line.

Step 16. Topstitch neatly over this middle line and tie off the ends nicely.

Your inside pieces are now ready to be assembled!

Step 17. Place both your credit card slots and zippered pouches on top of the 8.5″ x 9″ piece you will use for the inside.  Pin together, baste all around the edges using 1/4″ seam allowance.

Note: I recommend interfacing this main piece before doing so.  I did not since I used home decor-weight fabric, although I wish I had.

Snap Tab:

Step 18. Place your two 2.5″ x 5″ pieces right sides together and pin.

Step 19. Stitch around the outside using 1/4″ seam allowance.  Leave one end open. Make sure to backstitch at the corners so they are strong for flipping.

Step 20. Clip the corners and trim the seam allowances.  Flip right-side out and press.  Topstitch on the three sides with seams about 1/8″ from the edge.

Step 21. Make marks for inserting your snap about 1″ from the edge of your finished tab.  Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for inserting your snap.

Step 22. Take your main outer piece (8.5 x 9), and make a mark in the middle about 1.5″ from the top edge (one of the 8.5″ sides).  Again, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for inserting the other side of the snap.

Note: You may also want to interface this piece.  I used vinyl, so it was not necessary, but any other material should probably use interfacing.

Step 23. Place the inside and outside pieces right sides together and pin.  Make sure the snap edge of the outer piece matches up with the card slots on the inner piece.  Leave the opposite end (with the zippered pocket) open for flipping.

Step 24. Stitch all around using a 1/2″ seam allowance.  Use a small stitch for strength. Backstitch at the corners for extra strength (they are very hard to flip).

Cut your corners and trim the seam allowances (except on open edge).

Note: Again- my stitches are much better than my computer drawing capabilities

Step 25. Flip the whole thing right side out and press it well.  Insert the snap tab in the opening and pin in place.  Make sure it closes correctly.

Step 26. Change your needle to a size 16 (or if you use vinyl like I did, a leather needle).

Slowly and carefully, topstitch all the way around.  This takes time and patience.  In the places with lots of layers, you may need to turn the wheel by hand to get through the layers.  Be especially careful around the open edge of the zipper pocket.

You are now finished!  Fill it up and enjoy!

Outer Zipper Pocket Instructions

1. Mark a rectangle as in step #1 on the wrong side of the 8.5″ x 9″ piece.  This piece will form your inner pocket.

2. Place this piece on top of the main outer piece (i.e. the large vinyl piece in this tutorial), right sides together.  Line up the top and sides and pin around the rectangle as in step #2.

3. Follow steps 2-7 to sew in the zipper.

4. Once the zipper is inserted, fold the pocket fabric in half (right sides together) so the top edges are aligned.  Pin around the 3 open edges and baste it in place.

5. Continue with the rest of the tutorial, starting at step #8.